As each of you are enmeshed in your own lives where time passes quickly filled with daily chores and lists of “must do’s”; I am sure you understand just how quickly time flies. At no time did I anticipate a drought of blogging to last this long. First, I would like to apologize and second, I promise it won’t be so long between blogs from here forward. Knowing that the holidays get a little rushed and hectic I do look forward to the new year, yet in the same breath I look back at the year I have had and want to reflect on time passed.
After the 30 days of hiking in the United Kingdom I came back to the USA and prepped for the trip that the girls and I had planned for an entire year. The process of getting a permit for the Sierra Nevada’s was a large part of our ability to move forward and we got it! We planned for two of us to hike from Lake Tahoe to Sonora Pass the first week and the second week we would meet up with other three girls. Our plan was to continue south to Yosemite to summit Half Dome on a full moon.
Gina and I started on July 12 by driving to California and meeting an old friend of mine, Laurie and her trail angel friend Kelley. The girls picked us up at the my truck that we parked in Yosemite and drove us up highway 395 to Tahoe where they let us out at Echo Summit where we picked up the trail south. They were so helpful to our hiking itinerary and were awesome company all the way up north. The time came that we were at the parking lot of the trail head and we needed to say our goodbyes.
From there we went into the wilderness with our backpacks on our bodies feeling like we were ready to sustain life in the woods for the next week while we waited for the others to join us south of our starting point with Half Dome as the last climax of the hike. I was very happy to be back out there where my soul hums with happiness while I soak all the natural beauty up. Gina had hiked in Guatemala with me and that trip was 100% different than this one. Our means of transportation there were our feet from village to village through the Guatemalan jungles as we carried our own supplies plus medicine. We participated in an humanitarian effort to help the indigenous Mayan people. Often we had use of mules to get the large amount of supplies to our destination. The difference between that trip and the one Gina and I started in the Sierra’s was our backpacks were heavier and on us for all our waking walking hours.
This wasn’t my first backpack trip in the Sierra’s and my pack fit me very comfortably. Unfortunately, Gina’s pack did not. After our first day hiking into the wilderness Gina made comment that her hips were sore. We made camp that first night after only 7 miles hiking in because of the discomfort she was feeling on her hips. The first night of camp is always a busy one trying to remember how to put my tent up or Gina trying to figure hers out for the first time. Gina opted to use the hike itself as her shake out hike. I on the other hand, was well aware of how my gear functioned since I had come to know it all intimately on the JMT for 21 days 1 year prior. There is no better way to figure it all out than when you have no choice and are dependent.
Our first night out on the trail wasn’t too bad. We camped by a beautiful lake. Anything that tried to shake my mood of euphoria from nature was hard pressed. I get into my happy place when I am overstimulated with unmatched natural beauty and all the scents and sounds that come with it. We woke to a incredible sunrise peeking over the horizon casting hues of amber over the mountains just beyond us and the reflections of the color in the lake exemplified the glory. We were not to quick to pack up camp that morning since we were just starting our hike. I knew that everyday should get easier and all tasks required would become second nature soon. We finally hit the trail to see what was before us.
As we were hiking I shared that Clif Bloks were my go-to for energy up and over summits. I had come to see their benefit on the JMT. We came out of a wooded area to a clearing where we could see the trail wrap itself tightly to the side of a mountain we had to climb up. I popped a few bloks and shared them with Gina to get the fuel to ascend. My pace was slightly faster than Gina’s so I would hike at my comfortable clip and either look back to keep her in my sights or all together stop to take a break while she caught up. I had tried to explain what happens to me out there before we started our hike. In fact, stories from Gwen had been told to Gina while we all trained together running the stadiums at the McKale Center in Tucson at the U of A. I like to go with people on hikes but each person has to find their own pace and keep it. Because I walk faster than most, I keep my hiking companions in my sight or I’ll wait several times a day while hiking the distances to catch up together. I’ve been hiking that way since the word “go”. My pace and breathing get into a rhythm that I like and it works for me. Everyone out there has to find their own rhythm and go for it.
The climb that sat before us was not even a summit, just a couple thousand foot ascent. I got to the first flat place on the trail after a steep climb. The trail was very thin and the area cut out of the mountain side was noticeable from the overall steepness on either side of the 12′ wide path that ribboned the mountain side for over 15 miles. It was too steep to bushwhack up and far too steep to loose your footing and fall thousands of feet down to the valley below. The Clif blok helped me up to the resting point as I waited for Gina. When she arrived she was ghost-like in color saying that the blok was making her ill. She became very nauseated and started to violently vomit. YIKES!!!! What a horrible place to feel so ill with no where to go. Gina’s theory was that the blok made her ill, but I differed in my ideas. I remembered every time we had to summit the passes in the jungle of Guatemala she became nauseated without getting sick. Here it all came to fruition. In talking about prior hiking experiences and elevation I recalled Gina telling me she had altitude sickness in Teluride. Hello?????
This was not a good thing to find out in the middle of now where. I was reassured because I had my satellite phone. If things got hairy I could send out an S>O>S> and get a helicopter to help, if needed. We had to press on, but she was in no condition to hike let a lone carry a pack. We sat in the sun on the mountain side long enough for Gina to finally feel like she could move on. I was feeling good about our morning water filter session given that the trail didn’t pass water for the next 17 miles which I did not know at the time. We could see far as the trail scared the side of the barren mountainside. But we agreed to continue forward and hope Gina would start to feel better,
Hope was all we had because she did not feel better. She needed to sit, rest and repair herself. Her hips were swollen from her pack resting on them as she continued to move south on the trail towards our goal of Sonora Pass. Her comfort level was at a minus 10 but her perseverance served her in our attempt to make miles and keep going. We kept hiking after she felt well enough to move forward. I didn’t have the right maps for the trail we were on. I knew we were heading in the right direction but a map would of given greater security. I like to see where the water crossings are located so I could always plan on my water supply. We hiked another 12 miles with a slight ascent as we continued to gain elevation. Gina kept hiking, but it was tough, both, because of her belly and her hips bruised from her pack that kept hurting her as she walked on.
We stopped for some shade from the trees we were walking through for the first time all day. We were still restricted to a very small trail cut into the side of very steep mountains. The trail was the only area of reprieve to find a level seat and rest. It wasn’t long at our new higher elevation that Gina became very sick again. Our rest took over 3 hours for her to have the strength to keep going in hopes we would go down in elevation. We didn’t know. I ran about a mile down the trail to find a spring bubbling out of the side of the mountain with clear cool water to filter and bring back to Gina to try to keep her hydrated. After a rest and more vomit we stood up to get our packs back on our bodies. I stood off the trail and the weight threw me down….hard….uphill…thank the lord. But I landed on my left shoulder and leg. There was a bit of blood dripping down my bare leg. My shoulder hurt like it probably had a significant injury but with Gina already sicker than sick I had to pull up my big girl pants and press on without acknowledging my injuries. The best I could do at that moment was to laugh and laugh out load I did. I let the blood just dry on my leg because I wasn’t wasting water to clean it up.
We were up and moving again with silent prayers to make it to a lower spot allowing Gina feel better. I had to tell her I thought she was a real-bad-ass-chic to be ‘that’ sick out in the wilderness where all you really want is a warm comfy bed with a bucket next to it with a warm cloth on your head and the ability to go to sleep. She didn’t have that luxury now or in the near future. We had to press on. 17 miles on our second day was impressive. It was mostly up and that made Gina super ill. We hiked until we didn’t have to anymore that day. All we wanted was a place to set our tents and for Gina to be able to lie down. Finally, we found a flat spot in a clearing of trees just off the trail that wiggled its way off the side of the mountains we had traversed all day. There was a water supply near by too. We set camp quickly trying to get Gina settled and in bed to recover from an awful day. I had major reservations about the rest of the trip given that we would be required to summit far greater elevations than the 8500′ elevation she battled with that day. Sadly, communication between us began to suffer from the events of the day. I wanted Gina to know I was there for her. I didn’t know what I could do exactly to make it less painful for her.
We both knew that solid rest would serve us well for the next day. We didn’t know what was in store for us since my map was not correct for the area we were hiking. We were also seeing a lot of smoke. We could smell it before we started to see it. It was every where we looked except behind us. We decided that there was a forest fire somewhere we just didn’t know where. With night falling we needed to hope it wouldn’t burn to us as we slept. We needed rest. Gina had Ambien for sleep aid and I had brought my standard benadryl to help me sleep, but it wasn’t working. Gina spared an Ambien and we both crawled into our own tents and went to sleep. We woke the next morning to a sky full of smoke in every direction. The fire was spreading yet in what direction we were clueless. My son texted me on the satellite phone that morning and said we were headed straight into a fire burning outside Yosemite.
I asked him to please be our ears and eyes. He would keep me in the loop as to how far we were from the burning forest fire. If we needed to bail off the trail we had a couple chances coming up as we were going to be crossing major blacktop passes that cross the Sierras. At least we knew the fire was a safe distance from us today as we continued to hike south towards Half Dome. The smoke started to burn our eyes at times. I was walking with a bandana across my mouth because it was thickening as we walked in the direction the smoke was coming from. Gina felt better, but was not 100%. We didn’t have any elevation we needed to climb that day from the looks of the terrain that lay ahead. We did need to discuss the likelihood of actually being able to finish the hike together since the higher elevation summits still laid in front of us. Plus, the fire was a reason of concern as well. As we packed up and moved on I just wanted the day to be easy and stress-less since the day before sucked!!!
Compared to the prior day we were doing great. Gina’s hips either went numb or she got used to the pain and her tummy settled because we were below 8000′. We made progress while seeing untouched lakes and green meadows filled with brilliant wildflowers that filled the air with sweetness. What a beautiful day out in the wilderness without any concern of the rat races we left behind. When nature shines so bright in my life I can only smile and soak it all in as if it is a special delivery straight from the source filling me with love. I am a sponge to all the grandeur mother natures offers us out there- it is INCREDIBLE. I was in my happy place. I think Gina wanted to find hers but was slightly distracted as she tried to gain her strength just to carry on. She did great. We hiked about 12 miles that day and found a spot to camp with greater ease than the day before. We set our tents and ate our de-hydrated dinners that soaked up the boiled water in the freezer bag that contained it all. Still settling in to our routine sleep was slightly evasive. Gina offered another Ambien and I said yes. Again we crawled into our respective tents to find comfort in rest with our eyes closed. 
I woke to hearing a noise of a hoof-footed creature that I could see in my minds eye as a goatman. I could hear him walk as the pine needles and dry leaves crunched under his hooves. I was convinced laying in my tent that he was stealing my entire backpack. I got my headlamp in my hand and crashed out of my tent trying to scare him as much as he was scaring me. I needed my backpack and he needed to leave it alone. Once out of my tent I was standing barefoot on the forest floor scanning the whole area around our camp. I was yelling “get away” loud enough to wake Gina from her Ambien induced sleep. I was circling our camp on foot shining my headlamp in every and all directions revealing nothing but the bark of all the trees that surrounded our tents. No goatman anywhere…..what the heck was THAT? I told Gina what I was up to and she said as long as my back pack was in the same place and safe I needed to go back to bed. I did.
I crawled back into my tent on my pad and under my quilt with pine needles sticking to the bottom of my feet due to the sap. I started to pull off the pine needles and toss them outside when I looked down at my satellite phone that was blinking. I looked at the message from my son who said his biological father had been found dead in Tucson. I quickly responded to him asking when he’d fly in from the San Francisco to Tucson to deal with the situation since he is the only next of kin of his biological father. He said he’d fly out in two days. I told him I’d be off the trail and back in Tucson by then so I could assist him with all that needed to be done. He was reluctant to accept my help then but I was determined to not have him go through what needed to be done by himself. Sadly, my kiddo lost two fathers before he was 24 years old. I needed to help him with his father’s situation however I could. I would be there for him. I barely slept after the goatman and the text messages.
We woke to more smoke than before knowing the fire was closing in on us as we continued to walk in the direction of the burn. My son had been great in keeping us updated on the fires movement. That morning was a morning of decisions. Due to Gina’s altitude sickness, the fire and now my son’s needs we had to bail off the trail. I never thought I’d say that and mean it, but I did. The next blacktop road that we would cross would be our exit point. We made it to Highway 4: that is just south of Markleeville, California. 4 meets up with 89 that winds it’s way out to 395 which is where we really needed to be to be able to go south to Tioga pass back into Yosemite to get to my truck to drive back to Tucson. Once we were on 89 the auto traffic was scarce. We walked east and put our thumbs out for every passing vehicle. As we walked we came up on a PCT’er who needed to resupply in Markleeville. He had started on the USA/Mexico border 4 months prior to meeting us on the road. He stated that a lot of PCT’ers (Pacific Coast Trail through hikers) were bailing off the trail north of Yosemite due to the fire and poor air quality. He said some hikers were air-o-vacced out because of respiratory issues. That information sat well with Gina and I knowing that the fire a one prevented us from continuing on our hike.
We went from hiking to hitchhiking. first ,I went through my phone attempting to call all my northern California friends to see if they could come get us – no avail. Hitchhiking was our mode of transport. Finally, a kind, but slightly strange character, stopped in his tie-dyed dirty duds and his pocket puppy that was a white ball of fur in his truck. The PCT’er sat in the front of the truck and Gina and I with our backpacks hopped in the back of the truck in the bed. I said to Gina when we settled in to be ready to “tuck,duck and roll” if we have to since our driver was drinking beer on a curvy, country highway up in the mountains. He was kinder than we thought. He drove us all the way down to 395 which was the opposite direction he desired. We successfully had completed one leg of our trip while needing to get another ride(s) to Yosemite off 395. 395 has lots of traffic. Mostly semi tractor trailers and recreational vehicles with some passenger cars and buses. We said our thank-yous and ran to the side of 395. It was a hot day and even hotter with our packs standing on blacktop with our thumbs out.
We weren’t out there long before a huge motor home pulled over a ways up the road. The door opened and a women yelled out “hurry up if you need a ride”. We ran. Backpacks and all we were running along side of 395 to get into a motor home of kind folks who stopped for us. What a blessing. We met Darlene and Jim who were traveling in their coach visiting their two daughters who migrated from back east to out west. Darlene said she had told Jim “Stop, those women are my age and need a ride”. Jim said, once we were in their coach, that he too, had backpacked and hitch hiked in his younger years all around 395 and the Sierra’s. He would be sad when people didn’t stop to give him a ride. He went on to say that after that he knew if he ever saw a backpacker needing a ride he would make it a point to give them one. Both Gina and I were so thankful. We chatted for the remainder of the ride. They suggested we get lunch in Bridgeport. Jim was looking for a bar he remembered to of been in years earlier with a a specific stuffed deer head hanging in it so we joined he and Darlene in the search. We found it. They were both pleased. We then went over to a little cafe and shared a meal. We bought it for them as it was the least we could do for their kindness and generosity.
We finished lunch and loaded back up in their home away from home on wheels. They suggested we travel with them into Mammoth to rent a car. They would then drive us all the way into Yosemite. Their motor home exceeded the size allowed over Tioga Pass. They were the nicest folks that I am still friends with on Facebook. I am very thankful for the selfless kind souls who roam this earth. After debate and discussion we all agreed it would be best if Gina and I tried to hitch another ride into Yosemite from the Tioga Pass turn off from 395. They pulled into the Mobile gas station there to let us out and to take a few pictures before we said our final good byes. Gina and I ran across the highway to get in the right position to plop our thumbs back out. Immediately a white van pulled over and opened their sliding side door to ask where we were headed and if we wanted a ride.
We hopped into a hot-boxed van with 3 happy-pot-smoking-hippies who had left Yosemite Valley earlier that day to go out and get their groceries. The van had a double bed plywood platform in the back with a blow up mattress on it covered with blankets, afghans and pillows next to a 1950 octangular, living room, dark wood, end table bolted to the van wall. Their recently collected groceries littered the entire floor. Gina and I sat on the platform for the bed. Another young lady sat cross legged on top of the end table and then there was the male driver with his girlfriend in the passenger seat. They were all employed in Yosemite for the summer. They were saying the valley was being evacuated due to the fire and they were enjoying the quiet in the heat of the season and the amount of people in the valley was getting smaller and smaller. The situation made for very little traffic going over Tioga and all the way into the valley where my truck was waiting for us.
When we had been let out at the trail head in Tahoe my girlfriend Laurie tried to give me money and I refused saying I wouldn’t need any money on the trail. She had shoved $20 in my pack and said ” keep it you never know when you might need it.” She was right…again. We offered our only $20 bill to every driver that picked us up. The tie dye guy refused it. Jim and Darlene refused it and barely let us buy them lunch (I always carry my ID and credit card on the trail), but the kids driving us over Tioga Pass wanted the money with out a shadow of a doubt. Thank you Laurie…you were right. Next time I’ll bring cash just in case. The last ride to the truck was smokey, smelly and sad. We had made it back to the truck in one piece but not the way we had planned for months prior to our hike. But when it is all said and done we still got to see all natures’ beauty. We attempted our goal and in the end it was not in the cards of us to meet the girls at Sonora Pass and go on to climb Half Dome and exit with a sense of satisfaction.
I was glad to be heading home, out of the smoke, where breathing was becoming difficult for everyone. I would beat my kiddo back to Tucson and be ready to assist him however I could. Not climbing Half Dome only left a carrot dangling out in front of me to try again another day. Plans for another adventure would be made to complete what wasn’t on this trip. Since we were all safe and alive it would only be a matter of time before a new date was set. The three other girls made a plan “B” to go to Colorado to hike, camp and soak up mineral bathes. Adapting and overcoming obstacles sometimes happens in ways we hadn’t considered. It all worked out just perfectly!