Backpacking over 50

It has been too long

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IMG_0135With a new year looming on the horizon, after the impending holidays, I can’t help but to look back at what a year I have had with friends and family.  I am feeling blessed. I also feel that time goes by way to fast as you and I are enmeshed in our lives tending to what needs attention, just living and looking forward to the next big adventure (if you have one on the books).   After  England I set out to do last-minute preps for the through-hike planned for 5 of us from Echo Summit to Yosemite. The highlight would have been the full moon summit on Half Dome but it never came to fruition.

With help from an old friend who picked us up in Yosemite where we parked. She and her “trail angel” friend Kelley, drove Gina and I to Echo Summit to start on the PCT  (Pacific Crest Trail) trail heading south to Sonora Pass where we meet up with 3 more friends who were all going to finish the last week with us heading to Yosemite. Gina and I started with our 50 pound backpacks with high hopes we had everything we would need for the next week until we met up with the others who had food resupply and a clean change of clothes for us. Little did we know what we were getting into together, but off we went with lofty ideas.

The beauty of the trail and the surrounding wilderness can’t be beat. It didn’t take me long to realize all over again why I LOVE TO HIKE! All the hard work and thought that went to into preparing my body would pay off on the challenging inclines. We would have many summits with Half Dome being the ultimate goal. The preparation in food for 14 days on the trail including snacks that keep the body moving even when it would rather stop including the almighty Clif Bloks and electrolytes for our water  for the elevation gains that could kick your butts.

With the first night on the trail with only a few miles hiked in we set camp with high hopes for the rest of our adventure. The feelings I felt to be in the wilderness soothed my soul and fed my spirit. I wasn’t sure how Gina was feeling but I was on a hiking high and excited to keep moving in the morning. No tough elevations presented themselves until the fourth day which proved to be a challenge to both of us. The incline stared us in the face and we “Bloked” up and hit it. Unfortunately, the elevation effected Gina negatively and made her  sick. The worst part was our location on the side of a mountain that was 4000 feet down and past the twenety-inch-trail cut into the side of  the mountain it continued to rise over our heads another 3 to 4 thousand feet. We had little room to navigate and could see the trail for miles ahead still cutting a small path along the mountainside.

The night before we had camped at a beautiful lake surrounded by granite boulders and a thick forest. We thought we smelt smoke but were unsure. By the time the sun was setting the sky looked smoke-filled and the smell was far more evident. I have a 2-way Inreach satellite phone and my son had sent a text stating that we were headed straight into a fire burning miles south of us. My response was please keep us informed as to the status because the only ears and eyes I had to the outside world would be his updates on the fire. The day hike on the fourth day did smell of smoke as we went south but not too bad. What was bad was how Gina was feeling and the trail that was not giving us a break. We didn’t intend to hike 21 miles on a that day but that was a stretch of trail we didn’t plan on especially with Gina not feeling well. We took several long breaks to re-charge and re-group during the day and one break ended badly for me. How I managed to trip and fall is of no surprise to me. With trail fatigue setting in from such a long day hiking my foot failed to lift over a tree root and BOOM! I was down with my pack on my back. It is amazing how quickly the momentum of a fall takes over . The pack is not your friend during a fall. I did feel that of all the places I could fall, I fell in the safest place possible. If it had been elsewhere I could have gone down thousands of feet into the depth of the valleys I couldn’t see from the trail. A little blood, the need for re-adjusting my pack and a lot of laughter propelled me forward to the spot we finally decided was flat enough to pitch camp and call it a day.  Gina was still recovering from a really rough day and her appetite poor at best  making it difficult to muster any energy to continue on let alone set camp.

IMG_1034The smoke was filling the air a bit thicker and the smell was defiantly present. The fire certainly was a worry as we were walking right into it. During the fifth night I received a text from my son that his biological father had passed away. I laid in my tent, taking everything into consideration and made a decision. I needed to go home to be with my son. So the morning of  day 6  Gina and I agreed we would bail off the trail at the next highway crossing and hitchhike back to Yosemite. We had hiked in about 65-70 miles. We needed to let our friends know that the conditions were worsening on the trail with the smoke and that the fire would be changing our plans. We got out to highway 4 that meets up to 89 which would take us back out to 395. We got to the highway and met up with some PCTer’s moving north. They were complaining of the air conditions south of where we were and said that others were bailing off the trail as well due to breathing difficulties. This confirmed our decision to be the right one. We stuck our thumbs out in hopes of a ride. Many, many, many drive-bys went passed. We kept walking in the direction of highway 89. Finally a guy drinking beer in a tyed-dye, brightly colored shirt and dirty gray sweats with a white poodle on his lap stopped. He began asking us where we were going, were we came from and why. Fortunately, we had befriended a young man off the PCT who was headed to Markleeville for resupply and he did most of the talking. ‘Beggars can’t be choosy’ so we ended up in the bed of the guys truck with our backpacks. The PCTer sat in the cab with the driver who agreed to take us to highway 89. He gave us a beer and a bag of Doritos’ ….which were yummy!

He went above and beyond as he drove us all the way to highway 395. After our hour plus ride we hopped out and flipped our thumbs as we walked the busy highway. Semi’s sped by with cars and RV’s in the traffic too. It was hot. The black top didn’t make it any better. A beautiful motor home drove past and we both looked at each other. Gina said, “There’s no way they would stop for us”. And as we kept walking we realized it did stop for us. The door opened as a women yelled out, “Hurry up ladies….run!!!” We did. As soon as we got to the motor home door the women said, “I told my husband stop this thing…those women are my age…we need to give them a ride”. And her husband piped in saying, “I had backpacked a lot in my younger years and always wondered why no would stop for a backpacking hitch hiker. I said to myself…. I will always stop for them, as I wish they had for me”.  Wow…..I’m pretty sure Gina and I were both thinking how lucky could we were. The motor home was cooled with AC and comfortable with leather interior. Both Darlene and Jim, a retired couple traveling from the east looking for a place to call home that would be closer to their two daughters, who both relocated on the west coast, couldn’t be more lovely or generous. We stopped in Bishop to wonder around, fill up with diesel and get lunch. They offered to drive us into Yosemite if we went with them farther south to get a rental car since their RV was too large to go over Tioga Pass.

After lunch we loaded up and headed  farther south. They pulled into the mobile station at Lee Vining to let us out and for our good byes. They were so kind we were sad to say adios, but we did. We went back into our hitch hiking mode as we walked back out to the highway with our thumbs out hoping for a ride. A white van with no windows in the back stopped. My head was thinking trouble but they pulled over and opened the slider side door asking where we were headed. We stated Yosemite visitor center was where our truck was parked. The van held 3 young adults with dreadlocks and the smell of marijuana as perfume. We accepted the ride and sat in the back on a plywood raised bed with only a sleeping bag for padding while another young lady sat Indian style on a octagon dark wood heavy side table. The male driver and female passenger in front seemed to be a couple. Their music was playing while incense burnt. They were friendly folk who all worked seasonally in the Yosemite. They had a day off work and drove out of the valley to go grocery shopping. Lots of small talk about the fire took place and then they asked if we minded if they smoked. We said “sure”. Up went the windows and out came the joint. We were “hot boxed’ all the way to the truck.

We offered them gas money and they took it. Laurie had given me $20 when she  had dropped us off at Echo Summit. I had thought, “Why do I need money on a trail?” ….but hey….I did. Thank you Laurie, that worked out perfect. Great thanks to all who helped get us back to the truck after 158 miles of highway hitch hiking. What an adventure that we didn’t plan on. We contacted the other girls who were to meet up with us and told them we are off the trail and the fire was too big making the conditions unsafe to breath. Thankfully, they had a plan “B”. Gina and I made it to Tucson in record time, ultimately disappointed that what we had thought we would complete came to an abrupt end. We were safe, so it was all good. Of course, Gwen and I are planning another hundred plus mile hike for 2019 with a prayer we will make it! I was back home for a brief time before the Alaska adventure started which I will blog about next.

55 and alive….

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Whoosh! I made it through the actual day of my birth with the help of my tribe who brilliantly gave me a surprise party. A big thank you to each of them-especially Kimber and Gwen for organizing it. It was awesome to get together with great company and catch up over tasty food washed down with yummy spirits. I finally realized I made the discovery somewhere between the age of 50 and 55, apparently closer to 55, that there is a dramatic difference (at least for me) to be able to lose weight and strength train. OK, I didn’t discover it, but it came to fruition for me during the last 5 years. Getting back into the shape that will allow me to hike 175 miles in July with a backpack and run, at least, a half marathon in August has been a challenge …. But I am getting there. And my perseverance is paying off.

A Beautiful reward of early morning trail running and hiking


Embracing the gray with grace can sometimes be easier said than done. And I haven’t really embraced the gray as I have effectively covered it up. But the other signs of the aging process continue to rear their ugly heads. At 55, I have accepted new truths that I have come to understand. With age, it seems to me, that going forward takes more effort than it had in the past. It seems harder for me to run the trails or lift the weights but sliding backwards is far easier. It takes almost no effort at all and reaps 3x the backward benefits of having to work exponentially harder to move forward the next time. I do not like this part of aging and have re-made a stronger commitment to myself to not let my “hand-to-mouth” condition get the best of me ever again. (I know…. easier said than done, but after this recent attempt to get back on top of my game, I am more motivated than ever!)

I happily said good bye to the extra pounds because running with extra weight is extra work and backpacking with it is just crazy talk. If grams equal ounces, and ounces equal pounds, and pounds equal pain…. why would I want to run or hike with extra pounds on me? I don’t. My goal has been to get in shape enough to make my adventures as easy as possible; therefore, much more enjoyable. So, I have attacked strength training and have started to increase my running time and distances. TA DA!!!! Today was the day for the pay off. I felt it. All my daily workouts came to my benefit today. It was easier to run up the trail and to pull/push on the weights. I have made progress and that makes me want to keep doing it to ward of the effects of not doing it at all.

One of my many favorite trails to run on

One of the many trails I love to hike and run


The weight lifting, and strength training has made what I love to do easier. Running up hills on trails became easier today because my legs are stronger. My cardio has improved from running up and down the basketball stadium stairs which makes the distance not so challenging on the trails. Thankfully, my neck and arms no longer become sore after I run because they too are stronger now. I have been wondering when it was all going to click. And four-long-months-later the reward has arrived. The bottom line is don’t ever give up. Any day is a good day to start in the right direction and just keep going until BOOM… all your efforts pay off.

Now I get it. The message is loud and clear. I am 55 and very much alive!!! Commitment and perseverance has a whole new meaning at this age. That I will embrace, to help keep me on the right track. I continue to be motivated, even more now since the benefits are propelling me forward with greater ease. Hopefully this idea will help to motivate and encourage anyone who gets frustrated in their attempt to regain the health they seek.
It is all possible, if you want it.

Hit the trails stronger and lighter!

-Kat

What is the allure?

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There is a power that continues to call us to the wild. The wilderness wildness has a virtue that speaks to our souls. We are planning our next adventure into the depths of the Sierra Nevada’s on a 152-mile trek in July 2018. We are attempting to get our permits for Yosemite, desiring a final rush of hiking the epic Half Dome to conclude our hike.

 

But if we can’t finish there, we are wanting to at least start in Yosemite trying to squeeze in the chains of Half Dome before pushing Northbound to Meeks Bay of Lake Tahoe. After completing our John Muir trek apparently our enthusiasm became contagious and there are now three more women wanting to pursue the outdoor world of thru-hiking this summer with us on a section of the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT). Our direction will be northbound or southbound depending on what permits we get through Yosemite (that’s a whole story and process in and of itself).

The first ‘planning’ meeting took place in a booth in a bar (that was a bad idea-definitely not the best call so far). It was difficult to hear each other but we got to the permit forms and the process was explained. I brought all three maps out and had highlighted the PCT trail we plan to traverse. It is a little daunting to look at maps encompassing several different wilderness areas and follow your finger on the trail that goes top to bottom of the whole map-that’s a lot of HIKING! We started to discuss gear and food but figured it would be best to have an additional meeting, not in bar, to discuss both in detail. The other three women have done a lot of day hiking and some over nights but never gone for a long thru-hike. Hopefully, some of what Gwen and I learned on the John Muir Trail will be of benefit.

We are all over fifty and the allure of such an adventure could have been percolating in each of us for years just waiting for the right moment in time for all things to be perfectly aligned for July 2018 to be a thru-hike we will all do together. Our lives have all been very different and yet similar. We have all been wives, some more than once, some still are. Two of us are widows. We are all moms with ages of our children ranging from 12 to 35. Some of us work and some of us don’t but we all love to hike. We are approaching the planning of our thru-hike with experience and determination to be as prepared as possible. As always, the little motto is being repeated “grams equal ounces, ounces equal pounds and pounds equal pain”. Our preparation for our trip includes physical training too. We meet at least once a week to work out together running the stadium stairs. And we try to hike together on a weekly basis also.

Living in Arizona is a blessing in the winter because the weather lends itself to being outside. We can hike in comfort and train on trails while using our “Alltrails” app on our phones. There are so many trails available in the Tucson area and using the All Trails app makes finding them and staying on them a lot easier. Gone are the days of a compass and a lot of guessing. Rock cairns are so beneficial but not always present. Using a user-friendly app takes the worry out of getting lost while getting familiar with new trails. Exploring Arizona is an endless task and “ExploreArizona” on Instagram provides inspiration for new beautiful places to be examined while hiking with ‘training’ as the pretense. From the desert floors with the Sonoran flora to the mountain tops covered in Pondarosa Pines the diverse ecosystems and topography of Arizona continues to provide diversity to our hiking adventures. Explore Arizona on Instagram consistently provides photographs of “have to see” places in our incredible state. pexels-photo-154140.jpeg

With a Grand Canyon hike coming next month it will give us a good gauge as to how far we have come in our physical training goals. March is planned with another trek to Northern Arizona around the Page area for day hiking. We are hoping to hit the Vermillion Cliffs, Coyote Bluffs, Horseshoe Bend, Antelope Canyon and sneak into Utah for a day trip to Escalante Grand Staircase for one more day hike. We all agree that thru-hikes justify day hikes and that any hike feeds our souls through walking on our soles! W

I’ll keep posting in our planning in hopes to inspire and share information at the same time.

Hike on….

-Kat

Gear you can’t live without…

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Backpacking can be incredibly exciting while seeing untouched outdoor locations. Putting all the gear together can be costly to start. Carrying it all can be heavy but not having it is the difference between loving your experience or never wanting to go again. So, the preparation with through thought and a bit of anticipation that you will eventually need everything for a longer thru-hike is a great starting place. Or you could be like Gwen and I who set our sights on a goal of 200+ miles through the wilderness for our first major thru-hike. I had back packed before the John Muir Trail (JMT) but only for weekend outings that my aged exterior framed backpack that only held weekend supplies would never do for a 20-day hike on the JMT. And it also meant that my day pack for those weekly outings in our local areas wouldn’t do either as it only holds my water supply and snacks for a day hike.

Gwen and I had to gear up for a major thru hike and we were basically starting from scratch. The debate between ultra-light and not so ultra-light is yours to have with yourself. We had our own internal and external arguments about this topic but the 20 days on the trail ended up being the experience we needed to make up our minds. There are great reasons justifying either position. Being somewhere in the middle for weight could be a happy medium. The idea that makes weight a considerably important thought is “grams equal ounces, ounces equal pounds and pounds equal pain”. With that in mind I’m sure you’ll come to your own comfort level. And whatever weight you choose remember you will feel it all as you hike the trails your planning on exploring.

Buying your gear is making a financial commitment to your new-found passion. The physical training flowed easier for me after I spent all the money in preparation for our through hike. I also realized once you are all set up and dialed in with your gear it will serve you well if you take care of it. There are big ticket items that you just don’t want to skimp on like your bedding (a bag or quilt), your bed pad you sleep on to insulate from the ground you are laying on and your tent. But most importantly is the back pack you choose to put it all in because everything you need will be on your back. To be accurately fitted for your pack and it being the size you will use now and in the future, is important.

GEAR LIST:

Big ticket items ….

Tent- I chose a 2-man tent because I liked the extra room and didn’t mind the extra weight

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my home away from home

Back pack – get fitted at your outdoor shop

Sleeping bag or quilt -make sure you get one that the temperature will be right for your environment you will be in-sleeping bag liners can add additional warmth

Sleeping pad -the R value is important to your level of warmth at night (the higher the number the greater the warmth) and the thickness of the pad equates to your comfort

Not such big-ticket items ….

Stove -the Jet Boil is super-fast and kinda big compared to the pocket rockets sold on line that easily screw onto the fuel can while taking up little space in pack because they can be stored in a stainless-steel cup that you use for water boiling.

Water filter –Katadyn is super-fast, but bulky compared to the mini sawyer. For a thru hike I recommend the Katadyn and the mini sawyer as a backup water treatment.

Water source containers -these could be bladders or bottles. I prefer the 32 oz. bottles with the adaptor on the top that has a mouth piece and a hose that screws on in place of the cap. There are available on line and they save space in your pack because they can be stored on the outside of it verses the bladder on the inside. Exterior bottles it is easier to monitor your water supply while hiking.

Trekking poles – These are multi-functional for better use of physical energy. They improve your cardio work out and aid in over balance on rough terrain. They also reduce weight on knees 30% and help to slow or reduce fatigue (the power lock poles versus the screw type are better). It is also a suitable place to wrap your duct tape or medical tape supply around so that you will have it for repairs if need. Duct tape and a sharpie are musts for day hikes to thru hikes. Sharpies are great for first aid to mark injury times and monitor swelling.

Of course, you will also need a means of navigation (a map or gps-I used Inreach Garmin with 2-way communication via satellite and down loaded maps-that is a big-ticket item), permits if required and a journal with means to write. Your clothing should be in layers for all different types of weather, wicking and include Merino wool as it doesn’t smell after days of wearing it. I like to hike in running shorts and tank tops which are easy to wear under long pants and additional top layers if needed. I wear one set of clothing and then I can wash out the other, so I always have a clean (relatively) set of clothes. Clothing also consists of sleepwear (merino wool tights, t-shirt and undies-2 pair one to wear and one to wash out), down jacket, rain jacket, beanie, sleep socks (super comfy and they add warmth), hiking socks (again two pair-one to wear and one to wash out) and gloves. I also have one pair of long pants and one long sleeve shirt.

You will need fuel, water proof matches and a lighter. Make sure you have a basic first-aid kit and include lots of Ibuprophen or Tylenol for the aches and pains of thru-hiking. I liked to sleep with ear plugs too. A flashlight and head lamp are also important. There are solar light-weight lanterns out now that are awesome. Extra batteries weigh but you’ll need them unless you have a solar charger (another big-ticket item). A Swiss Army or Leatherman knife with multi-tools is a must and consider its weight. The stuff sacks available make organization of your supplies, clothes and toiletries much easier. Sunscreen, lip balm and dehydrated baby wipes reduce weight and make clean up without water at least feel fresh. And a quick -dry towel and washcloths are a must for bathing with bio degradable soap. I also like a bandana tied on my pack for a sweat rag. A spork to eat with is essential as is a bear canister in bear country or a sack for food to hang in a tree and then you’ll need rope (nylon or light weight at least 50’) which is a must anyways for a clothes line, swift water crossings or other applications.

Your foot wear is extremely important and should be worked out prior to long hike. I preferred light weight trail runners, not boots, but everyone is different. A pair of camp shoes that can double as water shoes is nice to give your feet a break. A poop bag is handy so not to pollute the outdoors. I make mine out of hardy Ziplocs covered in duct tape (so not to see contents) …it really only holds used toilet paper. A wag-bag is a whole different story that those who have done Mt. Whitney are well aware of wag-bags. You will also need a shovel to dig your potty holes. They make very light weight shovels. And extra Ziplocs are useful for your trash. Bear spray (if allowed) is weighty but it works, and insect repellent is also good to have. Pre-spraying Permethrin on all your clothes, sleeping bag, tent and backpack works well for insect repellent.

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Pocket rocket with coffee cups waiting for a fill up

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Re-supply time…it all had to fit in the bear canister

Food:

NOTE: It is important to taste your food before that is all you have to eat in the middle of no-where and you figure out you don’t like it!

For a general rule of thumb your food choices should have at least a 100-calories per ounce of food. Your daily consumption of food on trail will go up with your calorie burn through exercise. I liked to have three meals, two of them hot (breakfast and dinner), and as many as three snacks plus gummies or blocks for the demanding summit climbs.

If carrying a bear canister all your food needs to be re-packed to fit into the canister. Ziploc freezer bags are great for dual purpose of re-packing and then to cook the food in them. The dehydrated food can be re-hydrated in the freezer zip locks by just adding water to it. I love oatmeal so that can easily be my breakfast every morning. You can add nuts and dehydrated fruits as well as protein powder to your oatmeal to make the calories count and the taste better if need be. I also like my tea with sweetener every day and Gwen enjoys a cup of coffee with instant breakfast in too for flavor and additional protein.

My lunches are “pro bars” that are packed with calories and small to carry. My snacks are an assortment of protein bars I have come to love. Peanut butter Balance bars are my favorite. And Cliff Bloks were imperative to my ability to make it up and over summits. I love these too – energy jelly beans or PRO BAR gummies. They are all made for “during workouts” with high carbs for quick energy. They work well. And they taste yummy too!

The tuna packages are also great for lunch and tortillas with preservatives last a long time. Peanut butter and jelly in small packages are also yummy on tortillas.

Electrolytes can prevent cramps so supplement your diet with while hiking. I like the water flavor types that come in small squeeze bottles but there are many types to choose from. I recommend you use electrolytes at least one time daily. Again, pre-taste them too.

I bring additional salt packages but that is just me. I did find day in and day out that Top Ramen for dinner is yummy, but the entire season package contains a lot of salt, so I ultimately used only half of that at dinner or I would be thirsty all-night long.

This list is not inclusive of all that you should bring but it a good place to start if you have never gone backpacking before. Experience is the best teacher but being over prepared is better than under prepared when you’re in the back country. Hiking with a buddy can reduce weight you each if you can share. Hopefully this is helpful and useful information.

May all your trails be happy!

-Kat

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Walking through some of the big ones on the JMT

Ignorance is bliss…

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Katie sitting on the top of Half Dome

They say ignorance is bliss, and for our friend Katie, her first backpacking adventure really was a blissfully ignorant experience. But for Kat and I, her “hiking chaperones”, not so much. Last summer Kat and I hiked the John Muir Trail (JMT). For the 2 years building up to our hike, Katie watched us plan and prepare every detail  for  this super intense thru hike and as she took it all in, decided she wanted to have a taste of our adventure. She had never backpacked and wasn’t much of a hiker but what she had was great athletic ability as a swimmer and cyclist and a shared sense of wanting something fun and challenging outdoors; our hiking plans had definitely  piqued her interest. The plan was for Katie to tag along for the ride and join us for our first 2 acclimation nights at Curry Camp in Yosemite where we would officially start our thru hike. We then went one step further and told Katie she should start out with us on our JMT hike and camp with us our first night at Little Yosemite Valley. It was the perfect plan and Katie was stoked and so were we…this was an epic adventure and we were happy to share in the excitement.

Upon arriving at Yosemite, Kat and I watched as the euphoria of being in nature and especially of being in breathtakingly beautiful  Yosemite take  hold of Katie. Before our very eyes, we were watching a hiking newbie as she was  overcome and overwhelmed by something she had never witnessed or experienced…she was seeing things and feeling things that she never knew she was missing but quickly realizing she needed in her life. Her excitement reminded me of a 4-year-old seeing Disneyland for the first time…but even better because there’s not much left that excites a 50 year to this level!

We spent 2 days  acclimatizing and mentally preparing for a hike of a lifetime.  They say that the hardest part of the John Muir Trail is the first 4.3 miles hiking out of the Yosemite Valley. It’s an elevation gain of 2100′ feet and its carrying a 35 lb pack on your not yet developed “trail legs” that gets you and I would whole heartedly agree with that assessment. Its straight up steep, climbing overly tall granite steps . Having left at dawn, we arrived at Little Yosemite Valley early, made first nights camp and relaxed for a bit, swimming in the Merced River, kicking back on the banks of the river, especially enjoyable coming from the dry dusty desert. We were feeling proud of our first day on the trail. But  we couldn’t leave well enough alone and decided although we were beat from our hike up, we just needed to get in the presence of  Half Dome, Yosemite’s tallest granite peak. Bravely admitting it just wasn’t in the cards to climb up this scary beast on this trip (for me, I just knew I wouldn’t have the strength to make it up 600′ of straight up chains) but still, we wanted to get close to H.D. and see for ourselves this wondrous peak known both for its beauty and it’s adrenaline  inducing thrill of making it to the top without plummeting to one’s death. It’s intense and you have to be on your game, and I had no game left that first day. We set off from L.Y.V. at 3:00 in the afternoon and made our way up the trail with the general idea of going as far as the sub-dome and then we would turn around. But very soon after we started out, Katie, who hadn’t hiked with a 35lb pack on her back that day got another shot of her new-found euphoric energy at the thought of seeing Half Dome, started hiking faster than us, pulling ahead and as quickly as you can say , “never separate from your hiking group”, she was gone and out of sight from us. Oh-kee-dokie. Kat and I didn’t love that she’d done that, but like I said, Katie is athletic, she’s smart…but…she’s not a hiker…and it was getting a little late to summit Half Dome and the icing on the cake; ominous thunder heads were forming quickly in the not too far off horizon. Sudden and fast moving  storms are the #1 way people die on Half Dome; when lightning strikes on that wide open granite, the valleys biggest and highest lightning rod, people have no place to take shelter.  Kat and I picked up our pace thinking we would catch up to Katie but we didn’t. We continued on and as we were passing people coming down from H.D. we started asking if they had seen a petite blond in a bright blue jacket. They would all pause to think, but ultimately respond with a “no”. We kept hiking up the trail and thats when I started noticing little trails that went off the main trail. I was getting a stomach ache. We kept hiking and asking, always with the same answer, “no, we haven’t seen her.” Luckily dusk was a few hours away since it was summer but the clouds were creeping in closer and closer and we were getting panicky. Which wrong trail did Katie take? Will she know how to find her way back? Is she scared being all alone and lost? Does she have enough water? Will a bear eat her? Will her husband kill us when we have to break the news to him that we lost his wife? By this time I was on the verge of throwing up. My already wobbly legs were getting weaker and weaker as the minutes passed. Kat was handling this much different…she was swearing with clenched fists, ready to take Katie out (if we ever saw her again). We came upon our 10th group of hikers who we  just happened to have hiked with earlier in the day. We stopped and traded a few pleasantries about meeting on the trail again and then quickly changed the  subject and once again asked if they’d seen Katie who they knew from earlier in the day. This time we got a different answer…”yes, we saw her going up as we were coming down.” I’m sure all the other groups had been too deep into their own Half Dome hiking experience to notice Katie but our new trail friends probably stopped to say hello again and thats why they noticed her. At the news that Katie had been spotted, I nearly started crying with joy. Kat now was able to really let loose knowing she wouldn’t regret her words since Katie was actually  still alive.

Hearing that Katie was safe and now headed all the way up Half Dome, Kat and I knew there was nothing we could do, that she’d be a few hours. Knowing we still needed  to filter water, collect our camp water, make dinner and  re-pack our bear canisters and prep for the next full day of hiking, we headed back down to our camp site so that we weren’t doing these tasks in the dark. The clouds were still a worry but I trusted that if the threat grew eminent, a “real” hiker would kindly grab Katie by the hand and yank her down as fast as they could go…she wouldnt be left behind.

Dusk fell and no sign of Katie but very soon after full on nightfall,  2 headlamps walked towards our campsite, one being Katie and the other being her new hiking buddy who just happened to be a world traveling hiker, quite famous on Instagram. She met him on the way up, also picking up another solo hiker on the way. And according to Katie, she spent several hours in the company of two of the most interesting and intellectual people she had ever met.  Part of what made her new friends so interesting was their wanderlust for nature and hiking and their lack of materialism that backpacking reminds us so beautifully of.  It was another piece of the puzzle that Katie didn’t realize she was missing, but was happily discovering thru yet another chance meeting of  enlightened backpackers who were happy to share what those of us who love the backcountry know.

To say that Katie enjoyed her Half Dome climb would truly be the understatement of the century. You couldn’t wipe the grin off her face, her feet were barely touching the ground…the woman was high as a kite!!! I explained as kindly as I could that she literally broke every backpacking/hiking rule in the book while Kat unleashed  on her ( in a scary but  loving momma bear way)…how it effected us as her hiking partners and what she did was the ultimate in selfishness. But it didn’t matter. Katie was too drunk on nature and she could barely concentrate  on what we were saying. She was giddy with the joy that nature always delivers. She interupted our lectures several times to relive her Half Dome assent…she couldn’t believe that this type of experience was out there waiting for the taking! It was infectious and we loved experiencing Katies first taste of nature with her…it had been a long time since our own first step into nature that would forever change us and it was fun to experience it again through someone else’s eyes. Lecture over. It was pointless.

Day 2 we woke up, had coffee and breakfast, packed up and walked Katie to the fork in the trail. Kat and I would turn right and continue another 207 miles to the summit of Mt. Whitney, the tallest peak in the lower 48 and Katie would turn left, taking the 4.3 mile trail back to Yosemite Valley. The three  of us hugged and said our farewells, turned in opposite directions and set off…2 of us about to embarked on the most epic 211 mile of our life, one just completing the most epic hike of her life thus far, crushing Half Dome. And discovering her new found love of nature.

~Gwen

Who you meet on the trail…..

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The full moon was on the 4th of November 2017 and three of us set out for an overnight at Hutches Pools. We rode the tram (kinda cheating) up to the top from the parking area of Sabino Canyon. Off the tram we were with backpacks strapped on and then hiked in the rest of way. Gwen and I had first gone to Hutches Pools two years ago as our “shake-out trip” for the John Muir Trail. We had purchased all our gear for our 210-mile thru-hike, but we had yet to use it so Mother’s Day we hiked in as a gift to ourselves and spent the night. We were familiar with Sabino Canyon. Our favorite tough hike is Blackett’s which is 1.7 miles long situated off Phoneline Trail. In its short 1.7 miles to the end of Blackett’s the elevation gain is 1700’. That trail offers the most bang for the buck of a workout. Phoneline is just a nice, long trail with splendid views of the canyon where you can see folks walking the road, the tram traveling up and down it and the creek flowing in the monsoon season and after rainfall or snow-melt. Sabino Canyon’s most popular water hole trail is Seven Falls that meanders across the creek 7 times before climbing a few switch backs to get to the mid-section of the canyon wall and continue to hike up the canyon to the end where water run-off is spectacular if you time it right and it’s refreshing if nothing else. Until my first trip to Hutches Pools I thought Seven Falls was the greatest in the canyon, but you can’t camp there, and you can at Hutches. So off we went to seek a quiet bright night lit by the full moon.

The some of the trail to Hutches Pool is part of the Arizona Trail that leads north from the Mexican border reaching all the way to the Utah state line. The first time Gwen and I hiked it we ran into an ultra-light hiker who was standing near a ‘y’ in the trail. We asked him where he was going as we were passing by and he replied “Utah”. Wow! We thought he’d say Hutches Pools or back to Sabino Canyon, but nope…. he was in route to Utah. That was cool. I think that might have been our first experience with a thru-hiker on a trail. We were going to be thru-hikers come that July, but we needed to do an overnight first to test our gear so up the trail we continued. Hutches Pools offers a tranquil beauty of a fresh deep pool surrounded by rocks and the opening has a small sandy beach. For our first experience overnight in our new tents, quilts and backpacks at Hutches was perfect so revisiting it was a welcomed reprieve from the city as it is so close and yet so remote. The three of us were excited to spend a Saturday hanging in our hammocks prior to the full moon. A few other friends wanted a day hike, so they hiked in with us, ate their snacks with us and then headed back as we found comfort in our hammocks.

We rested a while and then decided to set up our tents. With fall in full swing dark comes early, around 630. That meant ‘back-packers midnight’. So, all three of same brand orange back packer’s tents were set up in camp that was a bit off the trail and a walk to the actual pools. Gwen and I had found a spot we liked and returned to the same one because we had a huge boulder as wind protection, it sat near a stream (not flowing in November) and we sat back off the trail so if there were to be other hikers at Hutches Pools they wouldn’t be coming through our camp. We had eaten our snacks and our lunch, walked up to the pools and took pictures, set our camp and as the sun was starting to set we made our diners. The feeling of being out in the middle of no-where with everything you need carried in our backs and no noise pollution of civilization set the mood for relaxation and enjoyment. Luckily, our group was the only pool visitors that day, other than the two distance runners who quickly ran to the pool, rested, and returned to the trail to run back to Sabino Canyon. The little paradise was all ours to enjoy.

We all made our dinner and ate with our sporks. We were chatting and listening with gaps of quietness in our conversation. Dinner was cleaned up quick and the sun had fully set. The moon had yet to completely rise so a cast of darkness was coming through the canyon. We settled back in our hammocks to await the moon rise but as time passed and the moon had yet to rise above the canyon walls we all decided we were too tired to wait and we should go to bed. As we were getting ready to bed down we brushed our teeth and situated our belongings I looked up and saw a headlamp come through the trees not where usual traffic would be off the trail. I was startled and realized my bear spray laid in my tent which was now between me and the person in the dark walking straight into our camp. My best response was to say “hello?” only to be answered by a tired and anxious males voice also saying “hello?”.

He stumbled into our camp with what appeared to be exhaustion and asked if he was at Hutches Pools. We said “yes”. I asked, “where did you hike in from?”

He responded, “from the top of the Catalinas up by Summerhaven ski resort.”

“What time did you start?”

He replied with a sigh of relief “8 a.m. this morning. Is there a spot for me to camp around here?”

We all answered at once “Yes”. And then decided it would be best to guide him to the pools in the dark with our headlamps and solar lanterns to make is easier to see and show him a spot near the water a distance from our camp. He was thankful for our attention and we all said good night as we left him taking his back pack off in the dark by himself.

The three of us chatted about him. Brenda was worried about him as he looked like an older gentleman all by himself, but Gwen and I both agreed he had probably been hiking and backpacking since he was a youth.

It was now back-packer’s midnight and we each crawled into our tents into our bedrolls that sat on top of our sleeping pads and we waited for sleep.

Of course, we all were fast asleep before the moon rose but as usual I had to get up to pee in the middle of the night, or I thought it was still night. When I rolled out of my tent and stood up I was amazed as to how bright the dark had become with the moon hanging high in the sky. It looked as bright as day. Wow. That was beautiful. I did my normal squat and crawled back into bed. I had to put my quilt over my eyes to make it dark enough to fall back asleep with the glow of the moon illuminating my tent.

Morning came, and we were breaking camp after our breakfast. The night hiker wondered back into our camp to say thank you for last night’s hospitality showing him a camp site. He was a soft-spoken man with an English accent. We started a conversation with him asking him details of his hike, his hiking history and eventually bid him farewell. As he walked farther from us and out of our sight we continued to discuss him and his story.

“David” had started on the Arizona Trail 5 weeks earlier at the Utah Stateline and needed to finish at the Mexican border within 10 days to catch his flight back home to Canada. He had in fact been hiking and back packing his whole life. He had started when he was about 10 in England, but he had lived in Canada for over 50 years. He was a young 70-year-old who last year had completed the Pacific Crest Trail (PCT) in 6 months. He had also trekked the Appalachian Trail. He said he preferred long thru hikes and wasn’t aware of which hike would be his next one. He had been outfitted in an old exterior framed canvas backpack which seemed perfectly sufficient for him. Yikes…. I don’t think they even sell that equipment type anymore. I inquired about what his family thought about his thru hike and time away from home and he said he had no family.  He explained that he found a lot of the thru hikers he had come to meet through his travels also were solo which seemed to allow for their choices of how they spend their time…. on the trails…in the middle of nowhere often alone perfectly ok. We found it all very interesting.

What struck me about meeting him out there was that he was as much of interest as the beauty or the diversity of the landscape we had hiked through. The depth of character and wealth of information he offered I found intriguing. I’m often motivated by ‘wonder’ and I feel at peace in Mother Nature looking at all she offers me to ‘wonder’ about. Yet after speaking to David I reflected on the ‘wonder’ of the souls we meet while out on the trails……and what makes ‘those’ people be the ones you cross paths with? I don’t know … but what I do know is that there seems to be a ‘liked mind-ness’ out on the trails and to be able to share ‘that’ with strangers seems like an additional benefit to hiking.

Looking forward to meeting more hikers on the trails….

-Kat

cairn noun \ ˈkern \ : a heap of stones piled up as a memorial or as a landmark

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I love cairns.
Little cairns, big cairns,  artistic cairns, sloppy cairns. There. I said it: I Love Cairns!  The topic of cairns causes a lot of friction amongst the backcountry loving community who generally are very mellow people. The #1 reason some are apposed to seeing them while hiking is because it goes against LNT (Leave No Trace) which is hands down the most important tenant that responsible backpackers and hikers practice. I myself practice LNT whole heartedly but when it comes to cairns I find them to be comforting. Knowing that those who went before me on the trail thought that the next person behind them may have potential trouble locating exactly where to go, this gesture connects our fellow hikers, a very caring group. Yes of course if you look hard enough, if you bush whack around long enough, if you go in enough circles, the trail always miraculously appears but for the new hiker or the unsure, it truly helps mark where to go. My girlfriend Su is a prime example of a woman who is new to desert hiking and finds cairns to be the signal that she doesn’t need to panic just because the trail isn’t in the obvious spot it should be. Yes, cairns leave proof of human activity, disrupting mother nature as she intended her rocks to sit, but I also feel there is great potential to keep some directionally challenged hikers from getting lost. Maybe I am looking at it too pragmatically but at my age I understand that things can go wrong on the trail and if I had to choose between a person staying on the trail vs. looking at rocks stacked at unnatural attention, I would side with the person. And honestly, I think Mother Nature would too.
~Gwen

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Kat finding the trail thanks to a trusty Cairn left by a previous backpacker.

 

Find your tribe or create it!

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We belong to a great group…or tribe….many of the members have been friends since their babies were infants and now few have kids left in the family nest. Whether we are all together on a day hike or just some of us can meet up, having someone to hold you accountable on the day you’d rather sleep-in but instead planned a crack-of-dawn hike early to beat he Arizona heat always keeps you moving.

Given that the great outdoors offers adventures near and far our tribe does regular day hikes on trails we know like the back of our hands. (We can do the whole trail or go for just the amount of time we have available that day). Or plan a weekend getaway to a place we have only seen in pictures and go to explore! Some of the group has even done international travel together on a journey to far away places in Europe.

A tribe of women can be tricky because we are not all made out of the same mold but a common like of the outdoors and the enjoyment of our spirits naturally being lifted usually makes for lots of laughter and easy flow conversation. Our common love of hiking is simple but the distance we like to go can sometimes be uncommon among us. We try to maintain flexibility with a buddy system so whereever we go if someone doesn’t want to go the whole way then we can break into groups. Everyone stays happy by doing the distance that is best for them.

Our group size waxes and wanes with regulars and guests here and there. Having a tribe provides comfort in knowing that we will always have a hiking buddy and a sounding board for whatever we might need to discuss “with the girls” to get clarity.  Given that not everyone is available everyday having as many as ten women in our group has made availability pretty good for a few of us to consistently match up our schedules.

A couple of us have cabins in the high country in the White Mountains of Arizona. It makes for a cool retreat with a variety of hiking trails when wanting to get out of the Sonoran Desert HOT summer temperatures sounds like a cool idea. This October, eight of us will be seeking aspen-Fall-leaf color while hiking the beautiful mountain trails together. I’m looking forward to exploring trails I’ve yet to see and to share the adventure with the tribe. I’m sure that there will be laughter and humming chatter bouncing off the trees as we walk about them.

Find your tribe….join a hiking club…enjoy what you love with others who feel the same!

Kat

PS. Pics of tribal toe tattoos! and some of the TRIBE .